Gotek USB floppy emulator


This is a great solution for replacing a old floppy drive. It works like this:
The gotek has built in 999 locations where you can place a floppydisk image. This image contains the contents of one floppy disk. These pre made images are usually easy to find on the Internet, but you can easily make a image of a real floppy disk you own.

All you have to do to use the gotek, is to put the images on a USB pen drive, and assign each disk a number. The gotek has 2 buttons in the front, where you can select the disks. One for up and one for down. Lets say you want to boot from a game or program that you assigned to slot 5. All you have to do, is to press the buttons untill the display shows 005, and the disk will load. You can press the buttons back and forth to select images, and your computer will behave as if you inserted that floppy disk. Its a great way to get rid of those old worn out floppy disks, and great to save space.

Available upgrades:
-Speaker that emulates floppy loading sounds!
-OLED screen that replaces the original display, so that the name of the disk is shown in letters instead of numbers, meaning you dont have to keep track of where you assigned your images.

The drive itself: The drive comes new with a really bad firmware that hardly can be used to anything. So you need to circomvent the protection of the drive, and flash it with a new firmware. I use FlashFloppy. If I sell one of these, they are already flashed with FlashFloppy.

Once the protection has been broken, future updates is as easy as to put the updated firmware in the root of the USB stick, and power on the gotek with both buttons in the front pressed in at once. The drive will now update itself. Be careful not to disconnect the power during this process.

This drive can be connected to any computer that has the same Shugart 34-pin header, such as

Acorn Archimedes
Acorn BBC Micro
Akai Synthesizers
Amstrad CPC
Atari ST
Commodore Amiga
E-mu ESI-32
General Music (GEM) Synthesizers
Sequential Circuits Prophet 3000
Tandy Color Computer

The FlashFloppy firmware ensures that they all work.

WARNING! If you connect the power cable in the back wrong, IT WILL KILL THE DRIVE.

Some computers require different jumper settings on the drive. Usually all you have to do, is to move jumper S1 to S0. If that dont work, try these options:

Jumper at S1 only
Jumpers at JC and S0
Jumpers at JC and S1

These files must reside in the root of the USB stick for it to work

This project with PCB and parts can be purchased on ebay:
or from

Magic Desk Cartridge Clone


This cartridge is a modified reproduction of the Magic Desk Cart made for Commodore 64. That particular cartridge had several tools accessible via a menu. This cartridge is built with the same idea, only with a bigger ROM, and by using a ROM that can be erased electrically without using a UV eraser. This cart is wired to support the more modern W27C512 roms, and W27C020 roms, selectable by a jumper, instead of those older roms that is no longer made.

1pcs 74LS174N
1pcs 74LS02N
1pcs W27C512
1pcs reset switch
1pcs PCB
Optional: IC sockets

To program this, you need the working games or programs that you want to install in the correct format, and a tool to generate the .bin file that goes into the rom. You can download the tool here.

First of all, all programs must be in .prg format. Just place the .prg files you want to use in the prg folder, the name of the file will be used as menu name.

This project with PCB and parts can be purchased on ebay:
or from

Vehicle Charge Indicator

Not every vehicle is equipped with equipment that tells you that the charging system is not working. That is certainly true for several of my vehicles. So decided to think of a way to monitor the charging system, but since I do not want some kind of big, expensive, ugly device for this, I decided that I should just make a simple solution with a LED and some kind of small circuit board. So I came up with this.


Look how small it is! 10pcs PCBs ready for a LED in one end and a Power cable on the other. The green and red LEDs are 3mm, and the blue and yellow are 5mm. The bigger ones are 8mm and 10mm, and gets more visible, but require a bigger mounting hole.

This can be used on Cars, Motorcycles, Mopeds, ATVs, Boats, Tractors, Snowmobiles, Snowblowers, Lawn mowers etc. anything that have a charging system. 6v, 12v and 24v versions can be made from the same PCB.

Its simple. If the alternator is charging, the LED lights up. No light, no charge. The design is made so that you can connect it directly on the battery or on the output from your rectifier, and it will not drain any power while the vehicle is not in use. There is no fuse, so you might want to add one to the wire. The circuit can handle reverse voltage for a while, but sooner or later the diode will break down, so try to connect positive to positive and negative to negative.

The idea is that with only a small hole somewhere suitable on the vehicle, one could drill a hole for one LED, ranging from 3mm to 10mm depending on available room and personal preference. I wanted the device to be as small as possible, so I went with SMD parts, to save space. Just for fun, Im gonna try to post this device on ebay, but if you rather want to make your own, I will let you know how it works, and list the parts you need.


D1: 12v Zener Diode
R1: 56 Ohm Resistor
D2: 1N4007 Diode
LED holder
Shrink tube

The theory is this:

We don’t want the LED to power on unless the vehicle is charging. So the power from the battery will be blocked by the Zener Diode (D1). But when charging is taking place, the voltage to the battery will be a raised from around 12v to around 14v. A normal charge would be from 13.7v to 14.7v. If you get less or more than that, you need to check your regulator. When the Zener diode (D1) reach the breakdown voltage generated by the charging system, power will pass through, and make the LED (L1) turn on. The resistor (R1) is there to protect the LED (L1). The resistor value can be changed according to how bright you want the LED to shine. D2 is there to protect from reverse voltage generated by the alternator.

For a 6v charging system, all you need to do is to replace D1 with a 6V Zener Diode.
For a 24v charging system, all you need to do is to replace D1 with a 24V Zener Diode.

This project with PCB and parts can be purchased on ebay:

Power Healer 64

Due to several friends have contacted me about my old Commodore 64 power saver, the Power Healer 64, Ive decided to revive the project and has made brand new design to this old gizmo from 2006. This time, I made 2 versions. One that is basically the same original design but with a few SMD parts to make sure that I keep the same old size that fits inside those cheap plastic cases they sell on ebay, and make room for a few smal improvements. The original size will also ensure that it will fit inside a C64 for those that want to make it invisible.PCB image

The second XL version is more like a replacement PSU with included Saver circuitry and extra fuses. The bigger one will be a nice alternative for people with no PSU at all.


More information will be published within a few days or so.

Commodore 64 diagnostic Cartridge rev 586220


I made a reproduction of the Commodore 586220 test cartridge. This cartridge was actually used by Commodore themselves to test every unit that came from the assembly line. They called it the “Commodore 64 Final Test Diagnostic Cartridge Rev 586220” and to fully test every single port and function of the C64, a special cable harness is required to terminate all the external ports for a loop test. But this cartridge is still useful without the harness, and it is a great addition to my collection.


The PCB itself is a standard 8K Cartridge that uses a 2764 eprom in address $8000-$9FFF which means there are many games you could burn into the rom, and make a cartridge out of your favourite 8k game to avoid the boring loading process.

You can download the official instruction manual here 

This project with PCB and parts can be purchased on ebay:
or from